Mid-range: Mid-range jack stands cost $50 to $150 for a set and are suitable for heavier vehicles. They’ll be acceptable for small, compact cars, but you won’t want to use them for a full-size truck or similarly heavy vehicle. Inexpensive: Entry-level jack stands designed for light use cost less than $50 for a set. The ratchet acts as the primary mechanism, but the locking pin provides added security in the unlikely event that the ratchet mechanism fails. Some ratchet-style jack stands have a backup locking pin. In general, locking pin jack stands are considered stronger and used for the heaviest work. The pin, however, is easy to replace if it ever bends, corrodes, or rusts, unlike the ratchet style where the entire jack stand has to be replaced if the mechanism becomes compromised. This type of mechanism doesn’t allow for adjustments as small as the ratchet style, such as to compensate for uneven flooring. The second style of jack stand uses a high tensile steel locking pin to hold the jack in place. When this happens, you will have to replace the entire stand. The only disadvantage is that, in some cases, the rolling pin and pawl (or locking mechanism) can eventually rust through. These mechanisms are simple and fast to use and allow small height adjustments to be made. Ratchet-style locking mechanisms use an angled bar to hold the stand’s height in place. There are a couple of different types of mechanisms. One of the most important features to look for is how the jack stand adjusts and locks. At the same time, if you have a tall truck or SUV and a low-ceiling garage, you may have concerns about minimum lift height. How much clearance do you need, and how much do you have room for? It’s one thing to lift up a vehicle high enough to change a tire it’s another to lift it high enough to have room to spend hours working under it. Lift heightĪnother thing you should consider is the lift height of the jack stand. On the other hand, in a confined work area, a large base stand can get in the way. On the one hand, you want a base area as wide as possible for the best stability. Base areaĪ jack stand’s base area is a two-edged sword. For the strongest jack stands, try to find a model with the fewest number of weld points.
Weld pointsĪny time you weld two pieces of metal together, you introduce a weak point. For example, if your vehicle weighs two tons, each of your jack stands should be rated for one-and-a-half tons. Ideally, each jack stand should be rated to hold three-quarters of your vehicle’s weight on its own. While some individuals like aluminum stands for lightweight work, especially since they weigh less and don’t rust, for the heaviest-duty jobs, you should go with cast iron or steel. Most jack stands are made from steel, cast iron, or aluminum. The first thing to consider when choosing a car jack stand is the material it’s made of and how it’s constructed.
So I wondered what HDPE was and after a little research found it to be more then suitable and much cheaper on eBay, about $25 delivered for a piece 1.5" X 4" X 30.5", and I enjoyed much satisfaction making and using them.If you’re working on soft ground, heavy-duty plywood under the jack stands can help disperse the weight. The problem was it's expensive and IMHO seems like it missed the mark in that the groove is centered causing the jack to be NOT centered under the load. A company called Gorilla Offroad company makes an adapter for $45 and in there description they mention it's made of HDPE and extremely strong. I believe mine is a more secure solution. The picture on the left is what somebody thought was a good solution utilizing a crescent jack stand. I've read stories where others were not so lucky. Those that have been lucky enough to use the pinch weld as a lifting point with out suffering damage are the fortunate ones. The adapter straddling the pinch weld does provide added stability. That is exactly why I made my adapters with a snug fit pinch weld groove placed to one side so that the factory designated load bearing surface would be centered on the jack stand. The pinch weld itself is not the jack point. It has a slot in it that straddles the pinchweld, presumably to keep the jack from slipping off the reinforced spot like my jack stand did. There is a bump just inside the pinchweld.
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